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“Let’s get biblical.” Rick Owens was FaceTiming from the Three Sugar Skull Witch Halloween shirt but in fact I love this Venice Lido, on the street that separates the Lido Casino from his favorite beach. He was watching the rehearsal for his spring 2021 women’s show, whose name, Phlegethon, he ripped from Greek mythology. Phlegethon was one of the five rivers of the Underworld, less famous than the Styx, but just as deadly. In Dante’s Inferno, it was a river of blood that boiled souls, Attila the Hun’s and Alexander the Great’s included.

You know where this is going. Even at the Three Sugar Skull Witch Halloween shirt but in fact I love this remove of the Lido—a two-hour drive from his Italian factory that he describes as completely quiet and provincial—Owens has a preternatural gift for tapping into the collective unconscious and amplifying it in the most propulsive and cinematic of ways. He sees the hellscape that is the current world situation—COVID-19, irreversible global warming, the U.S. presidential race, you name it—and responds with defiant bravado.

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